Malibu Creek

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Nothing here yet. This is a very popular area so we should add content soon and basic info, e.g. the free alternative parking (add a google maps to make it clear).

Approach

(talk about the traverse above the water) {{#widget:ThumbnailLink |target=http://picasaweb.google.com/hamikmukelyan/AwesomeStuffNearLA#5487188649683424914?feat=embedwebsite |src=http://lh3.ggpht.com/_6p5ZIZaoqxQ/TCZpASfvlpI/AAAAAAAANpA/7ku8WD2kJI8/n731075312_6316369_5531415.jpg |width=200px }}

Climbing article

In the September 2010 edition of Climbing, the "Holywood Hideout" article by Nicky Dyal has some useful information, which we summarize here.

Bouldering

"While the park's boulder problems are noteworthy and (mostly) frightening, even more adventure can be had at the Tunnel Boulders, a few miles west on Las Virgenes Road. In general, this area offers better landings than the boulders in the park, on the same bulletproof rock, though with fewer pockets. There are just over 100 problems at the Tunnel Boulders, all within a 15-minute walk from the road.

Recommended routes

  • Chopping Block (5.8): A perfect first lead up a low-angle face, rewarded by cool canyon views in the Stumbling Blocks.
  • Gorgeous (5.10a/b): Tucked up onto the hillside behind the Stumbling Blocks is the Mount Gorgeous sector, mostly established by John Long in the early 2000s. This route is long and sustained with nice views.
  • Kathmandu (5.10b): This 1985 Dave Katz and Mark Bowling route in the Ghetto can have a watery start, depending on the season, but it's a perfect warm-up for the rest of the steep, powerful routes there.
  • Rolling Blackout (5.10d): Wind your way up the scooped-out, white rock at the Power Wall--the climb is aesthetic and fun.
  • Planet of the Apes (5.11a): You may feel instantly sandbagged on this toprope at the Plane of the Apes wall, until a local gives the spray-down.
  • Johnny Can't Lead (5.11b): Too many pockets to choose from! They all have chalk, and they are almost all good!
  • Drifter (5.12a): The three-foot roof might seem intimidating, but just wait for the face above. It's nice to have a spotter up high to keep you off the boulder behind if you fall close to the top.
  • Hot Lips (5.12): Located on the right side of the canyon up from Planet of the Apes, this short and feisty toprope is now often done as a highball.
  • Urban Struggle (5.12b): The pocket moves are fun and big on this Ghetto climb -- my favorite route there.
  • Ghetto Blaster (5.13a): Less pocketed than the other routes at the Ghetto, this seems like a favorite for the local gym kids.

Guidebooks

  • Sport Climbing in the Santa Monicas, 2nd edition, Louie Anderson. The club has this in our Library.
  • Southern California Bouldering, 2nd edition, Craig Fry. The club has a 1990 edition in our Library.

See Also

Nothing here yet