2001 EXPEDITION TO MOUNT LOGAN (19550'), YUKON TERRITORY
See the original trip report here: East Ridge of Mt. Logan (19,550')
May 2001; Sebastien Galisson, Moise Sutter and Eric Wintenberger.
This was a hard route on a very difficult peak
Eric will tell us about his recent expedition to Mount Logan, in the Yukon Territory, Canada. Mount Logan is at 19550' the tallest peak in Canada and the second-highest in North America. It is located at the heart of the Saint-Elias Range, in the middle of the largest non-polar icefield in the world. The route attempted is the East Ridge, which is a classic route on the mountain consisting of steep snow and ice with short rock steps. The route is highlighted by two exciting knife-edge ridges characterized by wild exposure. Eric will share the story of his climbing in the tough conditions of the Yukon, between serac falls, crevasses, storms and avalanches.
Initial advertisement to the club
The Caltech Alpine Club is organizing this year an expedition to climb Mount Logan by the East Ridge. Mount Logan is located in the Yukon Territory, in Canada, close to the border with Alaska. Mount Logan is the highest summit in Canada, and the second highest in North America. Its location and remoteness make any ascent of the peak a very serious undertaking. Its summit towers more than 15000' above the glaciers at its feet. The picture above shows Mount Logan rising above the Hubbard Glacier. The East Ridge is in the center of the picture. Mount Logan is characterized by extreme cold (down to -40C) and furious storms due to its location close to the Pacific Ocean.
The Caltech Alpine Club is supporting a small team of experienced climbers, led by Eric Wintenberger and Javier Gonzalez, in their projected ascent of the East Ridge. The East Ridge is a long, technical and committing route. The climbers will have to face some steep mixed climbing in extreme conditions. Technically, the difficulties expected are on the order of 5.6 rock and 70 degree snow/ice. The expedition will try to climb the mountain alpine-style moving fast with little support.
The team will go between the dates of May 10 and June 10. A month may seem a long time to climb a peak, but due to the difficulties related to the weather and altitude, it is typical of any ascent of Mount Logan. The team will fly to Whitehorse, Canada, and will be flown in from Kluane Lake to the glacier close to the base of the ridge. The team has to be flown in due to the remoteness of the peak, only accessible by plane or two gruelling weeks of hiking on glaciers from the Alaska Highway.
The Caltech Alpine Club is offering very experienced mountaineers the possibility to join the team. Climbers need to be very experienced on snow, ice and rock. High-altitude experience would also be appreciated, since the summit is at almost 20000'. If you are interested in knowing more about the expedition, please feel free to e-mail Eric Wintenberger at