Chouinard-Herbert 2014

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The "Chouinard-Herbert" is the other classic route on the Sentinel. It is a smaller mental commitment than the Steck-Salathe, solely due to the fact that most features on the Steck-Salathe are wide, while on the Chouinard-Herbert, the climbing is more standard, and hence less physical. That being said, the Chouinard Herbert has some 5.11 pitches that are plenty pumpy. Both are long routes, with tricky approaches and descents. If you are ok with the wide stuff, probably you will like better the Steck-Salathe. Two of the three 5.11 pitches on the Chouinard-Herbert are kind of dicey.

The first 5.11c is a short thin crack in a right facing mini corner, that you get to the end of the pitch, at the end of a 5.9 slab. The business section is about 12ft. Lay-back and jamming, to a reach over a lip that hides a bomber crack. The hole thing is too thin and balancy to be trying experiments so close above to a sloppy ledge. If you fall there, with the rope stretch, you most likely go to the sloppy ledge bellow. I just pulled on pro to get to the lip above. The pro is good, small (blue?) aliens go just fine and there is a pin higher up before the lip.

The second 5.11(a) works you first and then presents you the difficulties. Save a camalot 2 or a 3 (better) for after the second roof.

The Afro-Cuban flakes is really hard. I studied Alex Honnold video to get the betta, but that had no bearing on me. The place is very exposed and scary. The Afro-Cuban flakes get their name, I realized during this pitch, to their acustic properties. They are a bunch of hanging flakes, of differnt sizes that sound really hollow. Testing then as you traverse horizontally, sounds like an Afro-Cuban xylophone. Hence placing pro under then is not safe. There are some pins above the first few flakes, but the rest of the traverse is best done without pro. Before committing to the move you can place a couple of bomber nuts (#5 and #11 sideways). Then...I run out of juice and had to pull through the crux...


Javier in Mt. Conness

The Sentinel map: <googlemap version="0.9" lat="37.729996" lon="-119.594765" type="terrain" zoom="13"> 6#B2E2135C 37.729996, -119.594765 Chouinard-Herbert </googlemap>




See Also